Food Review: Step Inside This Mumbai Restaurant Ummrao Saaj Where Umrao Jaan Still Inspires Cocktails & Cuisine

If Ummrao Jaan’s soul is still wandering, it’s going to be happy to see the tribute that Courtyard by Marriott in Andheri, Mumbai, is offering. Ummrao Saaj, the restaurant on that property, is an ode to the poetess and the cuisine of her province and era.

Wonder

The ode begins when you are told to play the xylophone as you enter to choose your drink. The idea is to see if the chord that resonates with your mood also resonates with the drink of your choice. Their signature cocktail menu, Raag, is based on the seven notes of Indian classical music — Sa, Re, Ga, Ma, Pa, Dha, Ni. Each cocktail then has a name associated with a rasa (emotions/emotional essence). After you find the note that you connect with, you can read the contents of the drink that matches that note. If you agree, then that’s your drink for the meal. If not, please go ahead and choose as per your mood or preference.

Visit amunra.qpon for more information.

Bravery & Peace

I am in a fix. Can’t decide between Ga and Dha. So, looked at the rasas — Ga is Joy and Dha is Bravery! Yes, I am in a joyful mood, and a vodka-based cocktail sounds good to start the afternoon. Kokum and curry leaves infused vodka finished with Himalayan soda and garnished with curry leaf. Curry leaf aroma titillates you. The drink starts kokum, ends curry leaf and has a mildly salty finish. It’s served with roasted cashews sprinkled with gunpowder chutney. An easy drink on the palate, the cashews bring forward the curry leaf freshness.

“All our drinks are served with a gratis to enhance the flavours of the cocktail,” informs Shubham, the bar manager and mixologist. All cocktails in the Raag menu are prebatched. All are blended and then clarified. This gives them an even consistency and an all-round smooth body.

Energy

The welcome snack is a bowl of a variety of papads served with pickles and mustard raita. All papads are procured from Lucknow, and pickles are made in-house.

While the menu is curated by Chef Gaurav, he is ably aided by Chef Siddiqui, who runs the day-to-day operations. “The idea is to present traditional Awadhi cuisine in a more modern way, with the cocktails that match the essence and in presentation,” says Chef Gaurav. “While I bring the modernity, Siddiqui brings the tradition,” he adds. And the blend of both talents is awesome. Sil Batte Nimona is a classic example of blended ideas. Peas with traditional Nimona masalas are mashed to the consistency of hummus. Topped with malai, pickled onions and garlic, and fried peas for the crunch. Served with small tafftan, this is a medley of  flavours and textures. 

Ananas - e - SaajSigdi jhinga

Shubham suggests I try Energy (Re) before I move on to the next dish or cocktail. Smoky Paul John Gold is used to create their version of Whisky Sour. There’s aamchoor on the rim, and gratis is a piece of guava. Bite into the guava before you sip to get the max flavour.

Khasta Kachori pairs well with this and Bravery (Dha). Green apple grate, goat cheese and onion cooked in apple juice stuffed in the traditional kachori served with blobs of chilli mango pudina chutneys on the side.

Romance & JoyKeema Mirch

Bravery does resonate. Tequila-based spicy cocktail served with aam papad. Starts sour and ends chilli in the throat. Green chilli-infused tequila does the trick. This also goes well with Ananas-e-Saaj, the next starter. Pineapple is stewed for three hrs in pomegranate juice, hajmola spices, cinnamon, star anise, jaggery, and vinegar before placing it in the tandoor. It is then placed in the salamander before serving. The result is a juicy, tangy mouthful. “Just like a murabba,” says Chef Gaurav.  Ananas-e-Saaj can be paired with the most complex cocktail of the menu as well. Wonder (Ni), which, according to the menu, is a dessert cocktail. Dark rum infused with chilli and pineapple is served with honeyed dry fig and Belper Knolle Cheese as gratis. Does leave you wondering about the flavours that come one by one.

Tamatar bhartaPeace

In the main course, Lucknowi Nihari, Raan Willingdon, and Maash Ki Dal are highly

recommended. The last is urad dal cooked in Awadhi style and then tempered. Served with lotus stems as garnish, this is a delight for vegetarians. They should also try Khubani ke Jamun — apricot dumplings slow-cooked in a red chilli gravy — mildly spiced, best with roti and tamatar bharta.

Not to miss for non-veg eaters is Raan Willingdon. Chef’s take on Raan and Willingdon. Traditional raan stuffed in a pastry, baked and served with the raan curry. A perfect blend of two traditions. It’s a delight to all senses. And 100 out of 100 to Chef Siddiqui for the Haleem. Perfect texture, perfect taste.

Food Review: Rameshwaram Café Brings A Very Different South Indian Experience To Mumbai — Are You Ready?

They have a choice of desserts. Shakr-amba, raw mango jam and cake served with sauce. Mix well to enjoy the flavourful medley.

Cost for two: ₹5,000 (with alcohol)

Read full story at source